New York was the last edition of the menswear shows for Spring Summer 2018 following on from London, Pitti and Milan, and Paris. You’d be forgiven for suffering a bout of fashion fatigue at this point, especially since it felt like NYC itself was feeling sluggish. While London, Paris, and Milan felt like they were breaking new ground, New York this season felt like it was playing catchup. Although there were a few exceptions which we’ve highlighted below.
Here's what you'll be wearing next year
01. Raf Simons
Menswear’s reigning king returned to New York this season for his latest menswear show, held in an alleyway that had been fitted out with a Blade Runner aesthetic. A$AP Rocky was there (of course) as were Marc Jacobs and Jake Gyllenhaal, all crowded in to the narrow passageway sipping on Tsingtaos. Peter Saville’s graphic designs for New Order and Joy Division proved to be a huge inspiration for the collection with graphics on both the clothing and the paper lanterns hanging above the runway. Other touch points include wet weather gear like rain coats, wellingtons, and umbrellas—all with that magic Raf touch which makes you see things in a new light.
02. Willy Chavarria
Following on from a great Fall 17 presentation was never going to be easy but Willy Chavarria upped the ante. The show was held in NYC’s iconic leather bar The Eagle for a collection called ‘Cruising’. These themes were worked throughout quite literally, particularly in oversized leather pieces. Lowrider culture and logo bootlegging also got worked in with Coors and Marlboro logos flipped on shirts, jackets, and pant legs. Overall it was a highly personal collection informed by Chavarria’s life but still made accessible.
03. Patrick Ervell
Childhood hiking and camping trips in Northern California were the inspiration for Patrick Ervell’s collection this season. You can see the reference in the use of colour and nylon throughout the collection—almost as the items were made from deconstructed tents and sleeping bags. And as with most collections of late sportswear reference heavily featured as well.
The duo behind Represent, British siblings Mike and George Heaton, travelled across the Atlantic to show at New York this season instead of London. The collection clashed a British take on sportswear with grunge, which resulted in a nod to Northern English subcultures of the late ’80s and early ’90s.
05. C2H4 Los Angeles
LA based C2H4 (molecular formula for Ethylene) showed for the first time at NYFW this season and put together a particularly strong offering. Designer Yixi Chen conceptualised her show as workwear for chemists in the year 2082. A highlight of the show was pieces from a collaboration with Kappa—turquoise and white tees, trackpants, and lab coats. Even better is that the collection is available right now form C2H4’s webstore.